Gone But Not Forgotten
Let’s workshop this poem about a community's collective mourning after the tragic death of a loved one.
scent of the day: Chypre-Siam (Vintage), by Rogue
Had this for awhile but still have not had time to write review. Here are my notes
flower-grass leather chypre / chypre siam is male mitsouko and I say it is better (but not better than the Bortnikoffs and Prins that do this way better) / Chypra Siam is a Southeast Asian take on the chypre family/ instead of bergamot and or lemon top, it uses keffir lime/ instead of centerign rose and jasmien in the heart, it used ylang ylang / instead of fake oakmoss or dialed down oakmoss, this used a big slug of the real deal (at least the vintage does) / This big slug is the major sellign point / it falls second to Mousse Illuminee, though, both in amount of moss and personal appeal
Manny Cross is a chef came across this idea after going into the garden to pick a lime for a curry dish: the smell of lime and jasmine reminded him of his experience smelling Coty’s original Chypre fragrance (the classic reference for a Chypre) and so he wanted to recreate that not so much the exact smell but the aroma that he associated with that smell and he did so by using the Southeast Asian approach. / siam just like moouse illumine highlights the stark difference between real oakmoss and synthetic oakmoss or just some synthetic earthy accord: the real is deeper and more realistic and it evolves, stark evolution you can see especially if you wear a synthetic on one arm and a real on the other / in these real oakmoss hits you see how oakmoss can have a real offputting charm: inbuilt attraction repulsion—what makes classic chypre so alluring is that you have that you have that tension built-in oakmoss and then repeated in the tension between oakmoss and citrus especially bergamot/ one knock: perhaps a mild ambroxan in the base (very mild but a foreshadow of what we get amped up in his now mainstream releases /
chypre siam is suggestive of tom yum soup in a way, perhaps better because of its use of both basil and lemongrass than we get in Tom Yum by Prin Lomros/ there's actually Thai Basil in here too, so it's like that po tak that I make with the lemongrass, basil and lime. / before I blind bought this, I just knew that it was a Chypre done without restriction by IFRA. / I did not know completely how much it is that Southeast Asian feel which I love. / he did the Southeast Asian approach because otherwise his composition would have been derivative. / he could have used the real amount of Oak Moss to recreate the Coty—that would have been good enough given the regulations today, but he still fell that it would be derivative. / That's why he added that Southeast Asian Eddie spin on paper. This is an A scent. /
The basil kind of like the oregano in interlude Man which otherwise because of the myrrh would be sweet and feminine steer siam in a more masculine direction. / it also makes the scent more masculine than it would be. / otherwise it would be more like what we see in Femme or Mitsouko. /This is more like a Green Giant man: Jolly Green Giant. /
Siam is the former name of Thailand so it's saying in effect Thai Chypre in the title. / The opening of Chypre Siam is very bright and zesty with the lime and the basil from the mid comes out as well after a half hour or so in the dry down to an hour. definitely the oak Moss pops through and it gets more resinous. / it's almost like there is an Amber resin in there of some sort in base (labdanum is typical for chypre—labdanum plus perhaps civet? it's almost like a classical Amber construction cuz you get a vanilla with the labdanum with benzoin contributing to the vanilla / it comes off kind of gourmand—sweet grassy gourmand./
Nitro Musk ( which I have to look up) and the leathery Oak Moss civet give the quintessential 1980s style clean dirty tension. / siam def shows how Manny’s chef skills transferred to perfumery / chypre siam is a good scent I can say after several wearings, but two things should be said first. / it's overall not as impactful pungent and punchy as I thought it would be. / second, the oak Moss in particular is thinner than I thought it would be. / I think it has a lot of unique character, perhaps more than the very clean character of moose illumine, but I might prefer moose Illumine more. / siam has rochas femme drydown but more or a soapy-moss than what I experience in the ravaged reformulation of Femme
Gone But Not Forgotten Which reality is worse: that cops attend the memorial out of spite, mourners in t-shirts bearing—haloed, in angel wings— a “copsecuted” man (“known,” Action News 6 says, “by classmates as Five-O Fade”), or to save lives given the statistics shots will fire here?